This sounds like a good idea. Very fiddly I imagine though.I'm in the process of transferring every single citadel paint I own into empty Vallejo dropper bottles. I also, btw, put a wee glass bead in the bottle to mix up the paint when I shake it. It helps a lot.
Yes, I do do that, it depends on the colours I want to make. Last week I wanted to paint a very very dark grey colour, so I used a dark grey with chaos black. I could have used blue, but then I would have had a very dark blue-grey which wasn't the colour I wanted.me_in_japan wrote:Try shading with a dark green, dark blue or dark red. Likewise, try adding spacewolf grey or bleached none for highlighting. Looks much more interesting than black shades n white highlights.Bith are very good for mixing with other colours to make them lighter and darker
*edit* then wash the whole thing in devlan mud and call it done
or brown ink. And that doesn't strike you as being a waste of time?Admiral-Badruck wrote:Not to beat a dead horse but one could mix up some devlinmud mud Eq if they used transparent paint.
All the Vallejo paints dry on my brush if I use them straight. Lately, though, I've been mixing a bit of glaze medium into everything, and it makes painting a lot easier. Gets rid of brush strokes too.Admiral-Badruck wrote: As for the skull white I have never used it out of the bottle nore have I used any paints strait from the pot. But skull white still is not very good it dries on my brush or goes milky and doe not really stick to the model.
how exactly is having thin white paint looking "milky" a bad thing?skull white still is not very good it dries on my brush or goes milky
is your model clean? are you airbrushing it on? do you have fingerprints on your mini? is your other paint not on too thickly (if you paint acrylics on too thick they actually form a paint repellent layer.) All of these could be the problem, not the skull white (since nobody else seems to have this issue...)and does not really stick to the model.
it is a bit of a pain in the bum, but I kinda do it in wee bits, basically as I feel like it or as I use paints and notice they could do with a refreshing.This sounds like a good idea. Very fiddly I imagine though.
Yeah, that's the stuff. Even though it's meant for mixing glazes, it acts as a retardant and a levelling medium when mixed to one part in three or four with other paint.me_in_japan wrote:dunno about Ten specifically, but the glaze medium I've got is Vallejo stuff, which I got from maelstrom. It's not the same as retardant, which just makes the paint dry more slowly.
I don't have experience with GW skull white, but Mr. Hobby Aqueous white is absolutely awful to apply with a brush — the worst paint in their range. It refuses to stick to the model, except when it decides to pool in recesses. I suspect titanium dioxide (the main pigment in white paint) might not play nice with acrylic paint formulations.I do believe that you, my good admiral, are talking what is commonly known as a bunch of hooey.
As a rule, I try not to use pure white wherever possible and I usually mix it with Astronomicon Grey if I have to paint an area larger than dot. The more opaque colours like White, Yellow and Red are all difficult to work with, so maybe oils are the answer.Admiral-Badruck wrote:I know most people do not think I am very smart but I am not stupid I have used skull white for as long as I have had GW paints in my paint box but for all the time I have had skull white it has been giving me trouble. truth be told I could just be really bad painter. or it could be that I am not very good with white in general... these days I use oils when I want something done in white..
